Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Building, Modding, Setup and Repair
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 10 Jul 2018, 16:03

It's been a while. Seems I only get to work on this in school holiday times.

The mahogany/swamp ash body went through the thicknesser - down to 40mm.


Used the fret saw and box to cut fret slots for the 32" bass. Lots of sanding to get the rough patches out of the flame maple.
Do I need to sand back the bottom side too before gluing?
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basshack
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by basshack » 10 Jul 2018, 22:31

Not necessarily, sometimes it's good for a bit of roughness for the glue to bind to. As long as it's uniformly flat you don't need to be too precious with it. You don't want gaps along the sides though.
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drbass
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by drbass » 11 Jul 2018, 06:22

I am generally happy with a surface straight out of the drum sander, maybe a couple of strokes with 120 grit. As Blaine said if it’s too smooth the glue doesn’t have anywhere to “bite”, in fact too smooth a surface can mean that you squeeze out most of the glue when clamping (glue-deprived joint).

Regards,
Michael
- Merlin “Kermit” 6 multi, Merlin Gaia 6 fretless, Merlin Rockmachine 5, Merlin NT5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3

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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 11 Jul 2018, 09:15

That's what I was thinking. Just making sure. Now on to testing the fret slot depth before gluing on the fretboard. Just gotta make sure it's straight! I remember seeing someone align the board with two pins before gluing.
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 11 Jul 2018, 09:31

Do you guys trim the fretboard first and then glue it? Like this?



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basshack
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by basshack » 11 Jul 2018, 09:39

Just in the middle of doing this myself again. So David teaches to create the neck shape to fit the pocket, glue the board to the blank, transpose the neck shape to the fret board side and band saw off the excess then match it to the blank with scrapers, sanding blocks before shaping the neck.
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basshack
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by basshack » 11 Jul 2018, 09:41

Oh and yes you still need to center the board on the neck and two small pins in the fret slot at each end help heaps.
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 11 Jul 2018, 10:19

Cheers.
I've just realised my fret slots are a little too deep for the fret tangs. Looks to be about.060" instead of .054" for the mando frets. Would this cause any issues other than aesthetically? I could use the jumbo fret wire instead?
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 11 Jul 2018, 10:22

Like this? Using plastic inlays. Looks like he leaves the masking tape there too?



This also looks like a good idea using a template and dowel. I might give this a go as it seems nice and tidy:

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basshack
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by basshack » 11 Jul 2018, 11:05

I don't believe having the slots too deep is a problem. Too shallow, too wide or too thin yes but the frets grip on the sides and so having "air" below shouldn't effect anything.

What we do at MSGM is drill a hole through where the slot is for a pin sized nail. The hole stops the nail from splitting the board but it isn't loose, just clearance. Tap the nail through and it marks where the board needs to locate when it is glued up. So when you're happy it's in the right place you remove the board, tap the nails back flush and put the glue on. Tap the nails back out again and with the reference marks for the centre and the nails you "feel" for the holes you made with the nails and then tap them in a bit further to hold in place. The jig that holds the fretboard on has over sized holes where the nails are positioned so they don't interfere with the jig when it's clamped up.
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 08 Sep 2018, 17:30

Back in the shed today:
One fretboard slotted, measured and cut roughly to size ready to glue up. This one is for the four string 32". (Red bass)

Working on another 5 string 35" neck - routed and pilot reamed the truss rod channel, routed the stiffening rod channels and inserted the carbon fibre rods. Lots of lovely padauk and maple shavings! (Blue bass)


Last edited by Curto on 08 Sep 2018, 17:42, edited 1 time in total.
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 08 Sep 2018, 17:41

Off to Bunnings tomorrow arvo to get a tiny drill bit and pin sized nails.
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drbass
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by drbass » 08 Sep 2018, 19:08

Curto wrote:
08 Sep 2018, 17:41
Off to Bunnings tomorrow arvo to get a tiny drill bit and pin sized nails.
Hi Paul,

Bunnings most likely only have bits down to 1 mm diameter, you’ll need an 0.5 bit. Not sure where you can get that though... .

Regards,
Michael

P.S.: build looking good. Which epoxy are you going to use for the carbon rods?
- Merlin “Kermit” 6 multi, Merlin Gaia 6 fretless, Merlin Rockmachine 5, Merlin NT5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3

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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 08 Sep 2018, 20:46

Thanks for the info. I've ordered two 0.5mm bits just now off eBay.


Still trying to source some quality cabinet scrapers and burnisher ...

I've used some super strength epoxy from Bunnings - the kind you squeeze out from two barrels then mix together. The rods were a tight fit anyway.
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basshack
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by basshack » 08 Sep 2018, 23:27

Carbatec is a bad place to shop for woodwork tools, too many nice things
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