DIY Refinish

Building, Modding, Setup and Repair
Post Reply
User avatar
sprag
Posts: 220
Joined: 17 Sep 2011, 07:34
Location: Melbourne

DIY Refinish

Post by sprag » 13 Oct 2017, 18:26

Hey,

I'm doing some mods to my trusty o'l mij squire P and I figured while I had it apart I'd sand it down and refinish it as it's sustained the odd ding etc over the years. Someone before me appears to have taken the original paint job off and given it a natural refinish which wasn't too hard to sand of with a little patience. Now I'm going over it each day with slightly finer grit paper till I'm happy or tired.

I'd like to give it a natural tung/BLO/Danish oil finish which I assume is what I just took off with an amber or orange amber tint if that's even possible but once I'm done sanding I don't have a clue...

Where do I go shopping for said product/s and what should I look for?
Do I use a brush a rag or a spray gun to apply?
Do I need to do several coats with sanding etc in between?
Do I need to wax it or seal it when complete?
Anything else I need to know?
How do I get imgur to work on this POS ipad of mine so I can post pics? :cry

User avatar
petersemple
Posts: 1012
Joined: 15 Oct 2012, 08:51

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by petersemple » 14 Oct 2017, 08:18

Oils will go on with a rag, so no spray gun needed. Please be careful with the used rags though. I have heard of them igniting - especially when too many are in the same place. Don't put them all in the same bin together. A bit of light sandign every coat or 2 can help. Personally I have used and really like Tru-oil. 20 or so coats of that and you can polish it to a high gloss. If you don't want a high gloss then you probably don't need so many coats.
Basses: Wasburn Status 4, Fretless 4 made from parts, Fretted through neck 5 made by me
Amp: Eminar bass 400 into home made cab with JBL 15"

User avatar
drbass
Posts: 3107
Joined: 04 Apr 2013, 05:31
Location: Doreen, Victoria
Contact:

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by drbass » 14 Oct 2017, 11:21

I started using Osmo products (developed for timber floors, mostly) and have to say I am realy happy with that.
Have a look in my Commercial Users thread for one example (the “Q” - just two coats, no sanding at all), currently have two more on the go.

Where in Melbourne are you? Happy to show you what the results are like in real,life.

Regards,
Michael
- Merlin “Kermit” 6 multi, Merlin Gaia 6 fretless, Merlin Rockmachine 5, Merlin NT5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3

User avatar
sprag
Posts: 220
Joined: 17 Sep 2011, 07:34
Location: Melbourne

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by sprag » 14 Oct 2017, 19:25

petersemple wrote:
14 Oct 2017, 08:18
Oils will go on with a rag, so no spray gun needed. Please be careful with the used rags though. I have heard of them igniting - especially when too many are in the same place. Don't put them all in the same bin together. A bit of light sandign every coat or 2 can help. Personally I have used and really like Tru-oil. 20 or so coats of that and you can polish it to a high gloss. If you don't want a high gloss then you probably don't need so many coats.
drbass wrote:
14 Oct 2017, 11:21
I started using Osmo products (developed for timber floors, mostly) and have to say I am realy happy with that.
Have a look in my Commercial Users thread for one example (the “Q” - just two coats, no sanding at all), currently have two more on the go.

Where in Melbourne are you? Happy to show you what the results are like in real,life.

Regards,
Michael
Thanks guys I'll definitely look into both of those.

Michael, those are some sweet looking basses there. I'd love to come check them out sometime. I'm in Frankston but Doreen isn't too far. With the finish on the "q" it appears quite greyish. Is that the timber, the Osmo, or did you add a tint? I was hoping to end up with a blonde or amber finish on this one

User avatar
drbass
Posts: 3107
Joined: 04 Apr 2013, 05:31
Location: Doreen, Victoria
Contact:

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by drbass » 14 Oct 2017, 20:18

sprag wrote:
14 Oct 2017, 19:25
petersemple wrote:
14 Oct 2017, 08:18
Oils will go on with a rag, so no spray gun needed. Please be careful with the used rags though. I have heard of them igniting - especially when too many are in the same place. Don't put them all in the same bin together. A bit of light sandign every coat or 2 can help. Personally I have used and really like Tru-oil. 20 or so coats of that and you can polish it to a high gloss. If you don't want a high gloss then you probably don't need so many coats.
drbass wrote:
14 Oct 2017, 11:21
I started using Osmo products (developed for timber floors, mostly) and have to say I am realy happy with that.
Have a look in my Commercial Users thread for one example (the “Q” - just two coats, no sanding at all), currently have two more on the go.

Where in Melbourne are you? Happy to show you what the results are like in real,life.

Regards,
Michael
Thanks guys I'll definitely look into both of those.

Michael, those are some sweet looking basses there. I'd love to come check them out sometime. I'm in Frankston but Doreen isn't too far. With the finish on the "q" it appears quite greyish. Is that the timber, the Osmo, or did you add a tint? I was hoping to end up with a blonde or amber finish on this one
That’s one coat of the black (mostly to emphasize the grain) and one clear coat.

This stuff comes in different colours so you could use a 50% yellow/50% clear (or similar, you’d have to work out the ratio on samples) for the first tinting coat, and then however many clears you want (again, they come in satin or gloss, bit the more satin coats you have the glossier it gets). Hope that makes sense.

Happy to meet half-way :) .

Regards,
Michael
- Merlin “Kermit” 6 multi, Merlin Gaia 6 fretless, Merlin Rockmachine 5, Merlin NT5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3

User avatar
noplanb
Posts: 1317
Joined: 04 Dec 2012, 22:00
Location: Adelaide

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by noplanb » 14 Oct 2017, 21:56

I've used both Danish oil and Tung oil.
Danish dries overnight in most weathers between coats, with a light sand in between as per directions on tin. Satin finish - the more coats the more lustrous.
Tung goes on even thinner, and takes more coats to get some kind of noticeable finish - I found it needs hot weather to dry over one or two nights to allow another coat. I would use 0000 steel wool to rub in between coats.
I see..............basses!

User avatar
slashin_velvet
Posts: 1047
Joined: 13 Mar 2009, 10:55
Location: Melbourne

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by slashin_velvet » 20 Oct 2017, 11:24


User avatar
sprag
Posts: 220
Joined: 17 Sep 2011, 07:34
Location: Melbourne

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by sprag » 07 Nov 2017, 21:16

Cheers for all the tips guys. I'm going with raw linseed and turpentine. I've done my first coat over the weekend
I grabbed a few pigments from the art supply store and some mason jars. I did a few samples of different colours on a spare piece of timber. With a small ratio of pigment to oil/turps the result is quite subtle so I can build it up over a few coats and switch back to clear when I'm happy.

I have a bottle of tru oil coming in the mail. If my stingray doesn't sell by the weekend I might strip it and tru oil it.

User avatar
bassbass
Posts: 792
Joined: 14 Nov 2008, 16:05
Location: Melbourne
Contact:

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by bassbass » 08 Nov 2017, 10:33

Please be careful with the used rags though.
+1. Yeah, linseed oil is a fire hazard. Hang the rags to dry before you put them in the bin, especially with summer here.
I'm going with raw linseed and turpentine.
Nice one. But you won't have a very durable finish. You may want to try some (oil-based) poly in there. IOW, homebrew danish oil.

You may also want to check out wipe-on-poly. The big green place sells a feast watson one that is great. They used to sell a Minwax one that had dryers in it. It was even nicer, IME. Satin is an option with both of these, and I recommend this, expecially for your first few projects. Specialist paint stores will often sell matting agent as well, if you are into homebrew pulled finishes. Using (or making) a satin poly finish is nice because as you build to 3-4 coats you get less streaking.

As for pulling, well I videoed the last project I did, but I didn't post a vid as the footage was pretty poor. (I just used the selfie cam in my phone.) But may add a video at a later date..

Here's a few tips to try out: For the first coat or two, try rubbing the wet finish with 0000 steel wool. Let sit for 10min, then wipe with refolded rag. This gives a silky smooth feel. Especially nice on necks. Use soft rags like old t-shirts and shake the lint out away from where you are finishing. In fact if you have been wood working in the area, thoroughly clean down, then wait a few hours to let the air clear. Cut a section that has no seams, and fold into a smooth pad about 4 inches wide. Hold it in your hand between your finger tips and the fleshy part of your thumb. Pour the finish into a long container (like an old chinese takeaway) so you can load the pad evenly. Apply with even, overlapping strokes. Do the edges first, followed by the back and face. If you don't get it perfect, you need to quickly decide whether to act or leave it. If you re-wipe, you have to do it before the finish starts to tack. This will vary on your product/recipe. (You may want to research "Terebine". This is a varnish drying agent additive.) But of course you are removing the build. If you leave it, you will need to sand or steelwood it before reapplying, this also of course, removes your build. Just prior to any finish application you should gently wipe the surface with a tack rag ($3-4 from the big green place).

Even though your finish feels nice and dry the next day, be aware that these types of oil finishes can take several weeks to fully cure out and reach their full hardness, so take care with reassembly, and don't put the instrument in a case for a while as the fabric can print your finish.
If my stingray doesn't sell by the weekend I might strip it and tru oil it.
If you plan to strip a factory finish, well good luck with that! :p Paint stripper (even the nasty metheline-chloride) stuff will barely touch this. Sanding is kind of OK on the flats, but is a massive PITA on the edges, cut-aways etc. IME, the most efficient way to remove a two-pack solid body guitar finish is with a heatgun and a scraper. And you'll still have a whole lot of sanding ahead of you...

If you don't like the finish on your stingray, I'd recommend re-spraying her with a new colour instead of trying to strip it back...
robkiddmusic.com
fb/robkiddmusicofficial

User avatar
sprag
Posts: 220
Joined: 17 Sep 2011, 07:34
Location: Melbourne

Re: DIY Refinish

Post by sprag » 08 Nov 2017, 20:01

bassbass wrote:
08 Nov 2017, 10:33
Please be careful with the used rags though.
+1. Yeah, linseed oil is a fire hazard. Hang the rags to dry before you put them in the bin, especially with summer here.
I'm going with raw linseed and turpentine.
Nice one. But you won't have a very durable finish. You may want to try some (oil-based) poly in there. IOW, homebrew danish oil.

You may also want to check out wipe-on-poly. The big green place sells a feast watson one that is great. They used to sell a Minwax one that had dryers in it. It was even nicer, IME. Satin is an option with both of these, and I recommend this, expecially for your first few projects. Specialist paint stores will often sell matting agent as well, if you are into homebrew pulled finishes. Using (or making) a satin poly finish is nice because as you build to 3-4 coats you get less streaking.

As for pulling, well I videoed the last project I did, but I didn't post a vid as the footage was pretty poor. (I just used the selfie cam in my phone.) But may add a video at a later date..

Here's a few tips to try out: For the first coat or two, try rubbing the wet finish with 0000 steel wool. Let sit for 10min, then wipe with refolded rag. This gives a silky smooth feel. Especially nice on necks. Use soft rags like old t-shirts and shake the lint out away from where you are finishing. In fact if you have been wood working in the area, thoroughly clean down, then wait a few hours to let the air clear. Cut a section that has no seams, and fold into a smooth pad about 4 inches wide. Hold it in your hand between your finger tips and the fleshy part of your thumb. Pour the finish into a long container (like an old chinese takeaway) so you can load the pad evenly. Apply with even, overlapping strokes. Do the edges first, followed by the back and face. If you don't get it perfect, you need to quickly decide whether to act or leave it. If you re-wipe, you have to do it before the finish starts to tack. This will vary on your product/recipe. (You may want to research "Terebine". This is a varnish drying agent additive.) But of course you are removing the build. If you leave it, you will need to sand or steelwood it before reapplying, this also of course, removes your build. Just prior to any finish application you should gently wipe the surface with a tack rag ($3-4 from the big green place).

Even though your finish feels nice and dry the next day, be aware that these types of oil finishes can take several weeks to fully cure out and reach their full hardness, so take care with reassembly, and don't put the instrument in a case for a while as the fabric can print your finish.


If you plan to strip a factory finish, well good luck with that! :p Paint stripper (even the nasty metheline-chloride) stuff will barely touch this.
Thanks definitely a few things a hadn't thought of in there especially waiting to reassemble and put in a case.

I came across this the other day viewtopic.php?f=14&t=19537&start=45, and it worked out alright. If the primer is sunk into the grain like on Petes I'll go with a solid colour refinish as a plan B

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests