Recommend me a router

Building, Modding, Setup and Repair
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Curto
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Recommend me a router

Post by Curto » 09 May 2017, 11:28

What do you builders use for routing pickup, neck and control cavities?
What do you use to route the truss rod channel?
What do you use to round the edges of the body?
What router bits do you use?

Appreciate your recommendations. Thanks.
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slowlearner
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by slowlearner » 10 May 2017, 08:43

This one would be pretty good.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/makita-900w ... r_p6240072

It's $40 more expensive than the 1600 Ryobi, but I reckon you'll be more comfortable with it. I bought the ryobi and ended up with it under my router table coz it scares me to death.

Truss rod is usually a 6mm straight bit (measure the rod width first). You want a roundover bit for the sides of the body. They come in different radii. Choose whichever one you want.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3Pcs-Radius- ... IsZFfyzugg

The bit you'll want for control cavities/PUs/neck joints etc is called a template bit. A shallow template bit is most helpful. They can be expensive. Bunnings don't sell them.

You could try a cheap chinese or buy one from Stewmac.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-4-Shank-Fl ... SwtGlZAwtq

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-4-Shank-Mo ... Sw03lY7HmY

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Ty ... _Bits.html

I also use forstner bits for hogging out timber. They can be cheaply bought in cheap tool shops or on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from ... t&_sacat=0
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slowlearner
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by slowlearner » 10 May 2017, 08:56

BTW, buy a dust extractor or shop vac. Good for your lungs, will keep your work area tidy. Dust extractors are cheaper than you might think and work really well.

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Dust-Collector
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bassbass
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by bassbass » 10 May 2017, 23:39

What do you builders use for routing pickup, neck and control cavities?
What do you use to route the truss rod channel?
What do you use to round the edges of the body?
Back when I was building stuff,I did all that with one good, and big, plunge router. A Makita. I had another very old router (Makita, non-plunge) that was my first one, bought as a teenager, and I had this under a router table. I could also use it as a drum sander. (I had a motor speed controller for it.)

As for cutters, I can't stress how much I don't recommend cheap router bits. Carbi-tool were my choice back in the day. And find a good local sharpening service. A good bit will work over many sharpenings. Also don't forget a drop of oil on the bearings. And if your router has a 1/2 inch chuck, don't skimp on your adapter collet. Cheap adapters will slip no matter how many weetbix you ate that morning.

Obviously, don't forget eye, ear, lung protection. (OT: Saw a u-tube the other day with a million views, where a guy made a cover for his ipad. Made me feel sick watching him with is face 6 inches from the cutter without even specs, let alone a mask...)
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Curto
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by Curto » 11 May 2017, 08:20

Thanks,
I'm wondering if this would be suitable and cut deep enough for all cavities - including the deeper control cavitity?
https://www.justtools.com.au/bosch-palm-router-gmr-1

It looks like the one recommended on StewMac, just under a different model name:
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Ty ... outer.html

Or maybe this:
https://www.justtools.com.au/makita-635 ... 00cxplunge
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slave
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by slave » 11 May 2017, 08:32

bassbass wrote:As for cutters, I can't stress how much I don't recommend cheap router bits.
Yep, dead on.
I've had 2 angle grinder discs, a circular saw blade (flying teeth), several drill bits and a router bit shatter on me over the years. All cheapies. A couple injuries, nothing major thankfully, but could have been so much worse if I wasn't wearing shoes. The grinder discs letting go was the worst, no warning whatsoever, just a very sudden hole in the gyprock above me!
Lesson learned. Cheap drills, routers etc. are just fine, but I always buy the real deal when it comes to the cutting bits now.
bassbass wrote:Obviously, don't forget eye, ear, lung protection. (OT: Saw a u-tube the other day with a million views, where a guy made a cover for his ipad. Made me feel sick watching him with is face 6 inches from the cutter without even specs, let alone a mask...)
....until it suddenly grabs and hurls his project across the room. First time I used a router to cut a pickguard I ended up having it thrown away as I was trying to cut plastic too fast. You should try cutting fibreglass with a router :lol:
Also, a lot of people don't realise some woods/materials are actually toxic .....

Routers are a lot of fun...
I just bought a cheapy myself, then made up a jig/table for doing projects. After having a bit shatter on me, I threw all the cheap bits that came with it and bought the good qual. ones I wanted. All sunshine and rainbows since then :thumbup:

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bassbass
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by bassbass » 11 May 2017, 13:04

Oops, only 100000 views, not a million. But that still makes me mad that 100000 people now think it's fine to use a router without safety specs on something that's not clamped securely. Skip to 1:50...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrT2tjAB2MY

Actually, if you pause when it shows his left hand, you'll see he's already missing the tips of two fingers!!! :crazy: :eyebrow: :thumbdown

Anyway, those little palm routers are fine, but as I said, when I was building, I much prefered a heavy tool. You are much better using a powerful tool that is understressed. Especially with Australian hardwoods, or bubinga, ebony, etc. Timbers that are very hard and dense. And especially with rounding over bits. Plus just the weight of the tool makes it easier to control. Not to mention the two handed design.

Those palm routers and laminate trimmers are fine, and will route a pickup recess (eventually), but are better for binding, acoustic bridge slots etc, where you need a router with a small footprint. Actually those little makita laminate trimmers are exactly what they use for bindings at Maton. (The rest of the routing was cnc).

I bought my router years ago from a guy who refurbishes power tools. I'm not sure these guys exist these days, but if you can find one in your neck of Australia, you'll probably get a much better router for your money. They often use better bearings and switches than the tool had when new, and will rewind the motors to a higher spec.

My router and all my bits and jigs are gathering dust in my garage these days. If you are in Melbourne, pm me...
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Curto
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by Curto » 11 May 2017, 16:15

I wish I was in Melbourne - you guys have the bass centre and the workshops!
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drbass
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Re: Recommend me a router

Post by drbass » 12 May 2017, 07:56

bassbass wrote:If you are in Melbourne, pm me...
Done ...
- Merlin “Kermit” 6 multi, Merlin Gaia 6 fretless, Merlin Rockmachine 5, Merlin NT5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3

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