The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Modern and vintage style electric basses handmade in South East Queensland.
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Rhystard
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Rhystard » 04 Jan 2013, 14:42

Looks great.

What's the difference between a dreadnaught and a regular acoustic?
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jamiesdad
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by jamiesdad » 04 Jan 2013, 14:52

steam turbine power is a characteristic of a dreadnought (according to wikipedia - watch out when researching assignments kids) :)

seriously ... it is a larger body style, originated by martin
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Phil
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Phil » 04 Jan 2013, 15:17

I thought Gibson invented dreadnoughts? :shrug: honestly, I don't know anything about that stuff I just build'em :D I know dreadnoughts are fairly large and loud, designed to do concerts, not play softly in your bedroom.

Mark, thanks! Altough I'd hardly call myself a newbie, guitar building has been occupying every day of my life for almost ten years now :help

Blaine, sorry mate, that's just the FIRST personal project, more fun to come ahead :D... although if you're interested in a 5 string P in LPB... :hmm

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by jamiesdad » 04 Jan 2013, 15:20

Phil wrote:although if you're interested in a 5 string P in LPB... :hmm
sounds yummy
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by PilbaraBass » 04 Jan 2013, 15:20

Dreadnoughts are so popular these days that the shape has pretty much become synonymous with “acoustic guitar”.
'98 Carvin AC40, '07 Squier JDAV, '91 P-bass, '96 Ibanez ATK300F, '15 Ibanez SR605
Kanye West wrote:My greatest pain in life is that I will never be able to see myself perform live.

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LimeB
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by LimeB » 04 Jan 2013, 16:18

Hi Phil. So , is there nothing else that holds the two halves of the top together but glue along the joined edges?

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by mkat » 04 Jan 2013, 16:27

Bill Paulin wrote:On woodworking and luthiery sites you will find endless threads about " tuning " a plane. What they're on about is lapping the sole and cutter to get them truely flat. All that work is done on the Veritas DX 60.
Yep, worked on mine 'cause I wanted more planes for dollars spent :) Hard though to beat stability, sharp thick blade and solid parts out of the box.
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int main(void) {return 0;} /* no bugs, lean, portable & scalable... */

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Phil
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Phil » 04 Jan 2013, 16:50

LimeB wrote:Hi Phil. So , is there nothing else that holds the two halves of the top together but glue along the joined edges?
At that point that was it, the glue joint is still pretty strong though, even if you bear in mind the top is only 2.5mm to 3mm :) But the top gets braced later on anyway and that is what will structurally hold it together when the box is glued together

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The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by PilbaraBass » 04 Jan 2013, 17:28

The top gets an X bracing like most dreadnoughts, I take it.

I checked out a vid on the go bar system today... How simple, yet effective
'98 Carvin AC40, '07 Squier JDAV, '91 P-bass, '96 Ibanez ATK300F, '15 Ibanez SR605
Kanye West wrote:My greatest pain in life is that I will never be able to see myself perform live.

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Phil » 04 Jan 2013, 19:41

The sides, Here’s the plank of figured Blackwood, Bill gave me, how awesome is that?! You can see the pencil lines where i’ll cut the two sides from.
Image

The sides have been cut roughly to size with one edge straight on both sides for reference, its also been thicknessed to about 3mm
Image

Yours truly busy bending the sides the good old fashioned way with a pipe and flame under it, once its bent it needs to stay in the shape over night to get used to its new position, the two halves of the mould are good for clamping them in for that
Image Image

The sides are cut to length and put inside the mould to glue in the neck block and the heel block
Image

The blocks are cut according to the plans which is about 98mm height for the neck side and 120mm for the heel side, they’re glued on the flat reference side of the sides inside the mould and clamped, the mould is then removed and a few more clamps are added to ensure a good glue joint.
Image

Once dry a few hours later comes the part where we need to shape the sides according to the radius they need to have; 28feet for the top and 15feet for the back, for that I use the radius dish with coarse sandpaper and a plane.
Image

If you look at this photo below you will see that the sides are sitting inside the mould on the radius dish, notice how there’s no gaps between the sandpaper and the sides, this is the top side of the guitar and has been shaped already, let’s look at the back shaping... Image

Still looking at the pic above, look at the top of the sides (back side of guitar actually), that’s pretty rough looking and its got a sharp angle at the waist. What I had to do first was plane the sides to the level of the neck and heel blocks as they were a bit higher, pic once planning is done. Image

I’ve put pencil marks on the heel and sides to get a view of where I’m touching and not touching when sanding.
Image

You basically hold the mould and sides and twist on the sandpaper (that's on the radius dish) to sand down the sides and heel/neck blocks, you want the edges of the sides and the block to take the 15ft radius desired.
If you look at the next pic, you can see dark edges on the side and the neck block, this is where the sandpaper is not touching so you need to sand down some more until all pencil marks /dark bits are gone.
Image

Once the sides and the heels are radiused correctly its time to install the kerfing which will be the gluing surface for the top and back. Image

The kerfing needs to be glued slightly proud of the sides as it will need to be sanded to the radius on the dish too Image

Once the kerfing has been sanded down, you can have an overal view of the 15ft radius on this pic by looking at the angle of the neck blockImage

The back and sides so farImage

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Rude_Mechanical » 04 Jan 2013, 19:55

In a word: cripes.
"Turn everything to 11, dump instruments in front of the amp and manipulate pedals for 5 minutes" - me.

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The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by PilbaraBass » 04 Jan 2013, 19:57

Are you sure you haven't made one or ten of these before?

Question: when you bend the sides on the hot pipe, do you wet the timber first?
'98 Carvin AC40, '07 Squier JDAV, '91 P-bass, '96 Ibanez ATK300F, '15 Ibanez SR605
Kanye West wrote:My greatest pain in life is that I will never be able to see myself perform live.

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Phil » 04 Jan 2013, 20:10

Big time, I must have sprayed a litre on the bastard while I was bending, wasn't too sure how it would go since it WAS the first tme :D

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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by basshack » 04 Jan 2013, 22:08

Phil wrote:Blaine, sorry mate, that's just the FIRST personal project, more fun to come ahead :D... although if you're interested in a 5 string P in LPB... :hmm
You have a PM!
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Re: The Year Off, Dreadnought Acoustic - #26

Post by Kevin » 23 Jan 2013, 02:25

Top class stuff!

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