Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Building, Modding, Setup and Repair
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slowlearner
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by slowlearner » 15 Dec 2017, 21:32

Curto wrote:
15 Dec 2017, 06:54
I purchased the low profile truss rods from Stewmac along with the router bit and pilot & reamer.

The Low-profile Truss Rod fits a routed channel 1/4" wide x 3/8" deep. The Router Bit is designed to rout this channel. After the channel is routed, it needs to be modified to accommodate the metal housing that holds the adjusting nut. The Piloted Reamer is for making this modification.

To accommodate the truss rod's adjusting nut, a hole needs to be reamed at the adjustment end of the truss rod channel. This hole is 3/8" in diameter and 2" deep (not 1-1/2" as mentioned on their website).
TIP: Rout your truss rod channel before cutting your neck to shape. Working with a rectangular neck blank makes it easy to clamp the work in a vice and to set up a fence for routing a straight channel
8/

You're showing the rest of us up as the worthless hacks we really are. :peep:
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drbass
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by drbass » 16 Dec 2017, 05:32

slowlearner wrote:
15 Dec 2017, 21:32
Curto wrote:
15 Dec 2017, 06:54
I purchased the low profile truss rods from Stewmac along with the router bit and pilot & reamer.

The Low-profile Truss Rod fits a routed channel 1/4" wide x 3/8" deep. The Router Bit is designed to rout this channel. After the channel is routed, it needs to be modified to accommodate the metal housing that holds the adjusting nut. The Piloted Reamer is for making this modification.

To accommodate the truss rod's adjusting nut, a hole needs to be reamed at the adjustment end of the truss rod channel. This hole is 3/8" in diameter and 2" deep (not 1-1/2" as mentioned on their website).
TIP: Rout your truss rod channel before cutting your neck to shape. Working with a rectangular neck blank makes it easy to clamp the work in a vice and to set up a fence for routing a straight channel
8/

You're showing the rest of us up as the worthless hacks we really are. :peep:
Speak for yourself, Pete :poke: ;)
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, "Red Baron" 5, Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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slowlearner
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by slowlearner » 16 Dec 2017, 10:25

Bahaha! :rolf:
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 20 Dec 2017, 10:02

Measuring and drawing up two neck templates this morning.
One for the 5 string neck: 45mm at the nut - 68mm at the 24th fret.
One for the 4 string neck: 38mm at the nut - 55mm at the 24th fret (narrow string spacing on this one, similar to Scott Devine and Mark King specs)
I'm using "The Tundra Man Workshop" online fretboard calculator to check my measurements for the neck (and bridge placement later on)

At the moment I've left 1cm after the 24th fret at the heel and 1 1/2cm after the zero fret to allow for the nut and headstock scallop.

Next step (after measuring everything twice) is to cut out the templates on the bandsaw and tidy them up with the sander. If only I had a spindle sander!

The Triton Oscillating Spindle Sander looks potentially ideal. Anyone use one of these?

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Classic5
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Classic5 » 20 Dec 2017, 19:23

I like the headstock design :yep
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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 09 Jan 2018, 17:02

Came home from holidays yesterday to find this had arrived. Time to do some work! Image

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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 09 Jan 2018, 17:06

Spent a few hours in the workshop on the necks. Finished the routes for the carbon fibre rids in the 35" neck. I made a guide by screwing on a piece of wood to the metal guide. With the new bit from Bunnings I simply ran gradually increasing passes until the required depth was achieved. These will be a sub fit and will require a tap of the mallet to fit the rods in. ImageImageImageImage

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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 09 Jan 2018, 17:16

I've decided to make up some MDF templates for possible future builds ... Just in case. I'll also use them to trim the necks to size with a ball bearing router bit.
Cut them roughly to shape in the bandsaw and tidied up the edges on the disc sander and new spindle sander. Then used a straight edge and sandpaper to true/narrow the long edges to the right thickness. (5 string : 45mm at the nut, 68mm at the 24th fret. 4 string: 38mm at the nut and 56mm at the 24th)

I struggled to get the edges of the templates 90 degrees. What would you recommend?

Next to make the two 35" neck templates and 4 string body template.
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drbass
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by drbass » 10 Jan 2018, 06:13

Hi Paul,

Looking good.

Interesting to see your "sub-size" approach to the carbon rod routs. I'd be a little concerned putting stress on the timber - I would never dare to do that for example with a wenge neck which is super stable in one direction but very "brittle" along the grain and could easily split. Doing a slightly oversized rout and glueing the rods in achieves a tension-free situation, and those rods will be not move provided they're fully surrounded by epoxy.

I also made templates to suit a template bit (with a ball bearing). To get a straight and 90 deg edge I used, wait for it, a template bit and the untouched edge of an MDF sheet. They are pretty much perfectly straight (but there's a little bit of "texture" which transfers to the piece you are making - can easily be sanded out at some stage), and I simply clamped it so the edge was EXACTLY on top of the line. Perfect. Bit of a mess (routing MDF is not a lot of fun) but 100% straight and 90 deg. Have used one template for my current build and am super-happy.

I'll probably end up with a number of those neck templates since the width at the heel not only depends on the number of strings but also on string spacing.

Looking forward to more progress pics.

Regards,
Michael

P.S.:
1) I drilled guide holes into the template at the zero fret and at fret 22 (that's the last one for my current build). For me (considering the way I do the body-neck connection) perfect alignment is absolutely crucial, and this helps positioning the template. I'll post pics later today.
2) I don't change the size of the headstock between 4, 5 or 6 strings. The Kermit headstock was originally designed for a 6 string multi scale but works fine for a 5 string "normal" bass. Manta and Q are based on a somewhat oversized 4 string headstock which works just fine for the 5 stringers - at least for me.
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, "Red Baron" 5, Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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Curto
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Re: Build #3, 4, 5 ...

Post by Curto » 10 Jan 2018, 08:49

The router bit for the rod channels is the same width as the rods. It would be a light touch of the mallet or even just pushing it in with my fingers to get them in. Once they're in though, I imagine they would be hard to get out.

Thanks for the tip on the template routing. I may need to do the four string neck template again as one edge is a little splayed after sanding.
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