slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Building, Modding, Setup and Repair
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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 25 Jan 2018, 14:00

cleary wrote:
24 Jan 2018, 09:58
Fwiw I'm really enjoying this too - particularly the hand-carved part. The MSGM builds are great too, but there's parts of the process where a machine gets involved and (black box machine process) tada!
Seeing (and reading about) the manual processes is exposing the machine functions for me - so thanks :)
The amount of time I could have saved by using a thicknesser/planer :lol:

Thanks for the kind words - hoping to get a lot done this weekend.

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drbass
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by drbass » 25 Jan 2018, 14:22

cleary wrote:
24 Jan 2018, 09:58
Fwiw I'm really enjoying this too - particularly the hand-carved part. The MSGM builds are great too, but there's parts of the process where a machine gets involved and (black box machine process) tada!
Seeing (and reading about) the manual processes is exposing the machine functions for me - so thanks :)
Just to make this very clear(y) ;) : what Davin is doing is something I'd refer to as masochism :D .

MSGM is far less "black box" than it seems. You still have to band-saw, thickness, cut the fret slots, sand parts to shape (using linisher and bobbin sanders, for example) - there is no "I put a piece of timber in this thing and have a finished neck at the end", just clever use of jigs and machinery. Davin would have saved a lot of time using a bandsaw and a thicknesser rather than a hand saw and a plane.

I use the workshop for some heavy lifting but everything I do at home (like body contouring using rasps and files; neck carving using rasps and files; and sanding, oh, all that sanding!!!) is manual. I would say that applies to pretty much everyone building through MSGM, although it may not always be apparent in the descriptions.

Black box stuff happens at Warwick (their fretting machine is a great example for that) or to a much larger extent at places like Fender.

I think Davin's approach and his results are amazing, and I really appreciate what he's doing but he REALLY is doing it the hard way.0

Regards,
Michael
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 28 Jan 2018, 14:23

Its been a hot hot hot weekend - and today was too hot in the shed, but I've still managed to get a fair bit done.

Friday was routing template day. I only needed a template for straight lines so I cut a groove through a piece of pine to fit the collar of my router - but came unstuck using the pine as I couldn't get the right depth of route. So I then had to get to work routing out a channel wide enough for the template to effectively hug the neck. After a fir bit of stuff around, the truss rod was a snug fit. Then onto the stiffening rods. Given I had routed out the underside of my template to fit the neck, I had to hog out one side so i could angle my template. Basically given my lack of preperation and promise to take my wife to the movies, I didnt get much more done. When I got home from the movie and the tennis wrapped up early, I head out to the shed and filled the slots with araldyte - the rods were a snug fit anyway, but I like this idea of Michael's as it ensures the rods stay in place.

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The next day I cut the fretboard to size, and flattened it so it sat flush. I also sanded the neck flat just in case I had any araldyte excess. Then I glued the board.

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I sanded the board flat once I'd taken off the clamps, and took to it with 120 as well, and the gidgee has come up a treat. Being such a hard wood, even a relatively rough sand has given the board this lustre.

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I've measure and traced on all of my cutting points for my frets - so that's my next job. Hopefully get that done next weekend.

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drbass
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by drbass » 28 Jan 2018, 14:33

Looks great, Davin!

The gidgee will pop incredibly once you do the finer sanding and the final treatment (whatever you decide to do).

I didn't come up with the araldite idea (that was taught to me by David and Rob) but I think it's totally essential for the proper function of the rods - they're not under tension like the truss rod, and if there's just a little gap they won't have any effect on the stability. The araldite makes sure they STAY in place, no matter what.

Have fun with the fret slots ;) - it'll take a while with timber this hard.

Regards,
Michael
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 31 Jan 2018, 08:03

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Thought i'd chuck on the headstock veneer/cap as a big block as I've decided to marginally increase the size of the headstock from the previous veneer I'd cut to shape - I'll repurpose part of that as the truss rod cover. I'll probably do a back cover too, but wont do that until I'm a lot further down the track.

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 04 Feb 2018, 15:53

Got a fair bit done today.

Fret slots hand cut. I clamped a ruler along the lines I had drawn and used a japanese marking knife to score a groove. Then using my pax fretting saw, I used that groove to cut the fret slots. I used a piece of timber screwed into the saw as a depth stop and way of keeping the blade square to the board.

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You can see the fret saw in the bottom right of this pic:
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Once I had these done I cut out the headstock shape and cut the neck to shape. Sanded the fretboard flat again just to get rid of any scratches from when i slipped a little with the fret saw and scratched the surface. I then recut the slots to make sure they were the right depth.

I also worked on the edges of the headstock - still working out if i'm going to bother with a rear veneer.

I hit the fretboard with some linseed oil because that stuff tends to soak in pretty well without leaving a lot of residue. I hit the headstock with tru-oil so it will match the body.

Now its starting to look like a neck.

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drbass
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by drbass » 04 Feb 2018, 16:26

Looks great, Davin,

And I also like your taste in aged timber :) .

Any comments on how hard the gidgee was to cut?

Regards,
Michael
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 04 Feb 2018, 19:39

drbass wrote:
04 Feb 2018, 16:26
Looks great, Davin,

And I also like your taste in aged timber :) .

Any comments on how hard the gidgee was to cut?

Regards,
Michael
The gidgee was slippery, but once I'd got into the groove it was pretty easy to cut through.

In fairness, I was using a brand new fret saw, so maybe a more dull saw would struggle a bit.

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 18 Feb 2018, 16:12

Frets pressed in using a g clamp. Slighty better process than bashing them in for a clutz like me, but has left marks that will hopefully be sanded out as part of levelling.

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Neck whittled down to size and shaped. Gone for a slightly asymmetric profile....but I think a phrase like "comfortable to me" is the best descriptor.

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SneakyJak
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by SneakyJak » 18 Feb 2018, 16:51

Thar fretboard looks stunning. Used gidgee a couple times now and it’s probably my favourite fretboard material at the moment.

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narcdor
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by narcdor » 18 Feb 2018, 20:15

This is turning out amazingly well I have to say...
'65 Fender Mustang, '15 Narcdor Precision, '64 Framus Star Bass, Stingray Classic
Mesa Walkbout, O'Neill B15-100 (B15-N clone), MarkBass Classic 300, Fender Bassman Neo 115, Ampeg Repro B15E

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 24 Feb 2018, 13:35

Well I had a boo boo today routing the pickups. Got them done, measured the depth, but when I took off the template I realised once I put in foam and allowed for the pickup wire it would probably end up sitting high.

I put the template back on (both time using the super glue and masking tape trick) but I didn't use as much glue. Template slipped on me and now I have a gouge out of the side. Silly me.

Trying to patch it up with titebond and woodshavings now. Wish me luck :P

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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by packrat » 24 Feb 2018, 13:50

PIckguard!

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drbass
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by drbass » 24 Feb 2018, 14:10

slashin_velvet wrote:
24 Feb 2018, 13:35
Well I had a boo boo today routing the pickups. Got them done, measured the depth, but when I took off the template I realised once I put in foam and allowed for the pickup wire it would probably end up sitting high.

I put the template back on (both time using the super glue and masking tape trick) but I didn't use as much glue. Template slipped on me and now I have a gouge out of the side. Silly me.

Trying to patch it up with titebond and woodshavings now. Wish me luck :P
Use a template router bit next time. And I would recommend using sanding dust mixed with superglue rather than shavings and titebond.

Regards,
Michael

P.S.: double-sided sticky tape works super-reliably!!
- Kermit 6 multi, Kermit Gaia 6 fretless, Kermit Rockmachine 5, Manta 5, Manta 5 YOLO, ("Red Baron" 5), Q 5, (Sandberg Classic S2-5), (Thumb-4)
- Genzler Magellan 800, 2 Genzler BA12-3
- EBS OctaBass, Boss MS-3, Line6 G50

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slashin_velvet
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Re: slashin_velvet's 1st full build

Post by slashin_velvet » 24 Feb 2018, 16:19

I'm using a template router bit with a bearing, unfortunately it was the template slippibg which caused the issues. It's relatively small, and I'll live with it if the filling doesn't work

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